One week on this photogenic island
Standing fifteen miles off the coast of Timor, directly across from the capital, Dili, Atauro is a gem of Timor-Leste with the most diverse coral reefs in the world, lovely beaches connecting the remote fishing villages, and a mountainous interior that drastically evolves each part of the ascent and descent.
Two nights in Vila, three nights in Adara, and another two nights in Vila. A few friends. One Island
Two nights in Vila
On the east side of the island is the port village of Beloi which hosts the weekly ferry to and from the mainland. This ferry carries tourists, locals, and supplies. As a result, the east side of the island is where the most development it. Don’t think Kuta or Waikiki, the main coastal road is lined with small hostels and resorts for divers looking to appreciate the famous reefs. It’s remarkably chill. And the food? Fantastic
Our first two nights were an hours’ walk (15-minute motorbike ride) south along the main road in the even chiller village of Vila. Our hostel, Manukoko makes a decent set of handmade pastas and pizzas, a welcome refresh from months of mountains of rice. This wasn’t even the star meal of the place, that crown is held by the remarkable grilled fish, local vegetables, and of course rice.
Across the street from the hostel is a “Boneca” store featuring hand-woven goods and next to the hostel is a shop selling locally made jewelry. Before I left the island, I bought the sickest crocheted hat. Vila is also the best place to start a trek up Mt. Manukoko, the tallest peak on the island that is also the namesake of our hostel. The photos and info about our hike will be found far below.
Our valiant steed guided us across the Wetar Strait for a delightful $5
The main market on the island. Photo taken a few hours after the ferry arrived. Exceptionally vibrant whenever it docks or departs.
Back of a truck to the southern village of Vila
Back of a bike coming back to the port village of Beloi
Beloi to Adara
Early, but not too early, we left Vila to come back to Beloi to find the trail to cross the mountains to the remote west side of Atauro and the village of Adara. We were offered a local map, but for whatever reason we declined? No matter why, I enjoyed the additional thrill of finding our way through the arid lowlands, lush jungle, and rugged west coast that we placed upon ourselves.
Manukoko leads to the mountain on the south side of the island. 'Dalan Aat' translates to 'Bad Road'. Our route took us the latter.
Canned tuna and chips are forever an unmatched combo.
Grayson looking as stunning as the view
Naturally we drifted into different groups as we crossed the island, I found myself with Horacio and Jeff most of the way.
Jeff and his cave
Me and my cave (Jeff and I are sharing it)
Incredibly white sand beach with perfectly clear water. I cherished the first bit, but the sun was beating down too hard on the following fourty minute walk along the shores to appreciate any longer.
They used to call it Goat Island during Indonesian times for a reason.
Goat trails with Tio Shawn
While staying in Adara, a few of us wandered until we find a dried riverbed to follow. Seeing a faint semblance of a trail off to the side, Shawn and I decided to splinter off and see where it would take us, assuming we’d meander only a few minutes before heading back. A few hours later we found plateau after plateau, each one holding differing landscapes reminiscent of what I’d imagine Tanzanian savannah to look like. I expected any moment for a lion to come out and eat Shawn. Every few minutes I’d call to Shawn, who was leading the way, to tell him “Yo this is pretty sick”. Because Atauro, and Timor, rose out from the sea during the Permian period, there are still tons of fossilized coral that can be found up here, being used to make fences that appear to be older than time. Pretty surreal experience to walk on what was the bottom of the ocean now a thousand feet above it, all stemming from a single “Let’s see where this goes.”
A large chunk of ancient coral posing behind Shawn.
Told Shawn he owes me for all these future Tinder pictures.
The village of Adara from above
Mario’s Place
Sitting between the sea and Adara is Mario’s place, a few beachside lodges usually holding divers from across the world to gaze into the tidal coral reefs. Then there was my friends and I who were beyond contented splashing around and playing with Maria, the swine mascot who loves a belly rub. Truly magical to swim and hike all day, eat fresh fish with Maria, and float in the currents under the myriad of stars and full moon streaking across the sky reminding myself this body of water is the same continuous body stretching to the coasts of my beloved California and the rest of the world’s coastlines and I am but a mere body of at the mercy of powers I cannot begin to comprehend. Also nice to get a photoshoot of my friends and go three days without touching the cursed cellphone.
I think the pose was "Disgusted"?
Sea to Summit: Manukoko
After leaving Adara, we came back to the east side of Atauro for two more nights. Most of the group stayed near the port in Beloi, but Jeff and I stayed in Vila so we could wake up closer to the trailhead to summit Manukoko. We were able to find a guide to take us up so at 6am we woke up, ate breakfast, and began walking. Similar to our hike to Adara, the change in fauna was dramatic the entire way up, each 20 minutes passing through a new biome. The main dissimilarity was the lack of clearance on the path. The routes we took clearly are not traverssed often because our guide was slashing his way for us each step of the way. While I found the trails challenging to climb at such steep grades and wicked amounts of brush, everything I did clear handed and with boots, our guide did holding a machete and snacks while wearing flip flops. A seriously impressive feat that highlights his years of experience doing this, telling us that many of these trails are parts of his daily commutes.
As we got higher, the green got thicker, and the sky disappeared only for us to emerge to an enraged sun at the peak illuminating the shores and inland plains surrounding us. Even from a thousand meters up we could see the coral through the divinely clear waters. Overall, another fantastic adventure and a great way to close our stay on the island. I am eager to answer the call of Atauro to come back and do it all over again.
Our guide, I was reluctant to hire one, but without him there is no way we could've made it to the top.
Sorry I forgot the name of this nut our guide showed us.
But it was basically walnut.
An accidental overpowering of the nut.
The peak is further than it seems, thanks in part to the often nearly impassable terrain
A cheeky side shot of our peak-to-be
Vila from above
Incredible to compare the dense jungle up on the mini mountain to the arid coast. Two worlds in the span of two hours.
Top of Manukoko looking inland
Jeff practicing his trust fall into oblivion
Jk, he's safe
You can't appreciate it from the photo, but this is the moistest any man has ever been in recorded history.
Take too many photos and get left behind!